What America Tastes Like

Famous Ribs in the South

The meat must climb the mountain of greatness on its own. The rub must push it over-the-top. Sauce is there only to allow the culinary experience to float away into the heavens.

When BBQ offers the primal satisfaction all smoked meats should aspire to, sauce is an extra. Not a requirement.

The Fox Bros menu is well-thought-out. It offers just what you want in an array of the diverse BBQ of the south. Fried okra, Frito Pie. You even have the option of meat on your Mac and Cheese. “Fox’s Mac” is topped with a tomato-ey Brunswick Stew filled with smoked chicken and chunks of potatoes.

The sliced brisket was flawlessly smoked, done slow until the collagen drenches the meat in unctuous rich beef flavor, complemented by a simple and effective savory rub. Highly recommended. (they were running out of the sliced brisket when we arrived)

Pork Spare Ribs (listed simply as “ribs” on the menu.) There is a depth of flavor and an herby complexity in the rub. The spices meld and deepen during cooking but do not turn harsh and carbonized. Tender, hickory smoky, perfect ribness.

Pork Babyback Ribs (Monday Only Special.) These were terrible. Dry and tough. She ate one bite and pushed her plate away. I didn’t even realize what was going on over there, until I’d finished my meal and I tried her plate. What the heck? Yes, Fox’s still gets Five Stars – they swapped out the uneaten Baby Backs for spare ribs, and the server was totally cool about it. Everybody drops the ball once in a while. They took care of it with no problem.

The original sauce has all the elements you want in Southern bbq sauce, and it does help the over-the-top good meat to soar:

Tang – a zingy edge that keeps fatty flavors alive
Sweet – hits the tongue quickly, but not overpowering or corn syrupy
Character – complexity that works with the tang and the sweet, but has spice elements that pull the nose left and right, with a bit of “that something” that is difficult to pin down (pureed raisins?)

Fox Bros brings it. You won’t get to discover them as a “hidden gem,” but go. As a restaurant, they are quite aware that they bring it, as the prices and the line out the door indicate.


Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q
1238 Dekalb Ave Ne
Atlanta, Georgia

https://www.facebook.com/ChrisShelbyPage


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